You can begin breeding your rabbits when the does are at least 4 to 5 months old and the bucks are at least 5 to 6 months old (miniature and giant breeds may vary and individual rabbits may take longer than others). If you'd like the does to reach full maturity and size (not required, just a preference), it is recommended to wait until they are 6 or 7 months old before breeding. This is recommended if you will be selling foundation stock to others so they can see what their parents look like at full maturity so they know what to expect theirs to look like. Breeding early won't necessarily change their breeding success nor the size or number of kits. But once the doe has been bred, they will slow their growth and they may never reach the full size they might otherwise have reached. It is a personal preference you need to make for yourself.
Always take the doe to the buck's cage. If you take the buck to the doe's cage, the buck may waste time marking the territory and they may end up fighting. Sometimes the doe will even harm the buck in a way that will eliminate all chances for the buck to reproduce in the future, making him useless in your breeding program. Remember to always take the doe to the buck! Once you put the doe in the buck's cage, he'll usually stomp around, make a circle or two and then mount the doe. You'll know the mating is complete when the buck gives a faint grunt and falls backward or on his side. Then he'll stomp around a little bit, kiss her cheek and mate again.
Some people like to rebreed them after 1 hour to ensure a successful mating. Others breed the same pair the following day. At AZ Rabbits, we allow the buck to have 2 successful mounts during the single meeting and do not do any follow up breedings. We have had excellent success using this method.
If the doe is not willing to be bred, you may need to use a forced breeding method. To do this, take the doe to the buck's cage. Then with one hand, grab the skin above the front shoulders (just below the neck area) with one hand and put the other hand under the abdomen. With the hand grasping the skin above the shoulders, pull the skin toward the back of the head (firmly, but not enough to hurt the doe). This not only secures the doe in place, but pulling the skin aids in lifting the tail, giving access for the buck to breed. With the other hand under the abdomen, lift slightly, also aiding in giving the buck access. Sometimes this is easily done and the breeding is quickly successful, particularly with an experienced buck. Sometimes it takes a little more time and patience. If you have a successful mounting using this system but cannot get a second one, remove the doe and bring her back and repeat this process 30 minutes later. This 30 minute gap is more for the buck's interest and stamina than any other reason. He'll get worn out trying and the rest is very beneficial.
One buck can service up to 30 does, servicing one or two does every other day, resting one day between matings. But it is recommended you have more than 1 buck for backup and to help diversify your breeding, depending on your end goals. We successfully breed a buck giving 12 hour breaks between (for instance, breed him to a doe in the morning, then again that evening to another doe). Then give him a day off. This maximizes sperm count and results in optimal fertilization and litter size. You can also breed a buck to your does once a day, if limiting to 2 successful mounts at the breeding of one doe and no more. Two does every other day is beneficial so you can have more due on the same day and practice fostering if needed.
At 2 weeks (14 days), you'll want to palpate the doe to make sure she's pregnant. While restraining the doe with one hand, feel just in front of the pelvis area on her belly with the other hand. If she's pregnant, you should feel the marble sized embryos which feel more like a grape than a hard ball. If you are new, check another doe that isn't pregnant so you can feel the difference. If the doe isn't pregnant, rebreed. If she is, you'll want to put the nesting box in the cage 2 weeks later (28 days after breeding). Palpating is not a simple process, but with practice, you'll always correctly diagnose a pregnancy. And make sure you palpate on or before day 14. Many recommend you palpate at day 10. If you do this, feel around for a smaller embryo that closely resembles a ripe blueberry.
The nesting box should be approximately 18" long, 10" wide and 10" high (some retailers sell them at 19"x10"x10"). The front should be either cut into a V-Shape or tapered down to about 6" for the doe to enter and exit more easily. No roof is necessary as this creates moisture which can kill the young, although some like to have a 5 inch roof over the far end of the box to keep the doe from jumping in from the side and stomping on her young kits. A 1/4" x 1/4" wire bottom is good to allow urine drainage and moisture escape also. Others like to use removable Masonite flooring with holes in it which they change out every time there's a litter (we do not like these at all and prefer wood nesting boxes with the 1/4"x1/4" wire bottoms). Fill the box with soft straw, hay and/or pine shavings about 3 days before the doe is due. She'll pull hair out of her dewlap (the roll under her chin) and make a cozy bed for her young. They should arrive within 28 to 31 days after being bred (usually on day 31). If they haven't arrived by day 34, they aren't coming... time to rebreed.
Make sure you inspect the litter after they are born. Remove any dead in the boxes. If you have bred multiple does at the same time you may want to foster some kits if one does has too many and another too few. Continue to inspect the litter on a daily basis to check for any dead. A doe may not have totally successful births the first or even the second time. If she isn't good at it by the third kindling, she may not be the best choice for breeding. And depending on the doe, they can optimally care for between 8 to 10 kits.
The young "kittens" are born with no hair and with their eyes closed. In 5 or 6 days their fur will grow in and in 10 to 12 days they will open their eyes. If any of the kits have their eyes so crusted over that they are not opening, get a paper towel and warm water. Dip the paper towel in the water and gently swipe the eye, being extremely careful and gentle. If both eyes are closed, move from one to the other, letting the water soften the crust. After gently working them, you will eventually be able to open them and clean off any remaining gunk. Only do this if it is obvious they need assistance. Then rub on some ointment to eliminate infection. If they are not aided, the problem could result in blindness. If this is happening too often, you may want to evaluate your nestbox and nestbox material. Unsanitary or dusty conditions may be causing a problem for your kits. If this is the case, start cleaning out your nest boxes and put clean, fresh hay/straw/etc. in and dump out any feces after the first week. Salvage the cleanest of the hair but remove urine or feces tainted clumps. Cleaning out the nest box after the first week usually isn't necessary, but there are always exceptions. Watch closely.
The doe will spend most of her time outside of the nest box and only return to feed them twice or so a day. After 3 weeks the kits should be hopping in and out of the box often and you can safely remove the nest box from the cage. We have found that at 3 weeks the box is no longer being used by the kits and is just taking up space in the cage. Be sure to clean and sanitize your nest boxes between uses.
After they are born, many recommend rebreeding the does anywhere from 5 weeks on. If bred 5 weeks after kindling, wean the young at 8 weeks. At AZ Rabbits we use a more aggressive (and expert supported) technique and breed the does 2 weeks after kindling. With this breeding program we then wean at 5 weeks. This 45 day breeding schedule yields 8 litters a year. The schedule you'll follow is something you'll need to decide for yourself.
Always watch for the best of your litters with the traits you are desiring to keep for your replacement breeding stock as you consistently work on improving your desired traits. Be prepared to cull and replace with improved stock on a continual basis.
